I had hoped to have time while in Yap to tour the island and learn about the Yapese culture. On Thursday, I had that chance. When I casually mentioned to the lovely Yapese woman serving me breakfast that I intended to drive around the island and visit some of the villages, her eyes grew wide. “No safe!” she said, repeating herself for emphasis, “No safe!” “You no go to villages alone!”
Plan B. I hired the local taxi driver/tour guide/woodcarver, Tamag, to give me a tour. Tamag was incredibly entertaining. As I drove, he told tale after tale of Yapese folklore and relished in the “aircon.” It seems cars on Yap don’t have air conditioning (other than rental cars) as they can’t import Freon.
Tamag’s tour included Yapese WWII memorials to American veterans, a stone money bank, and a trip to his village. Yap is the only place in the world that used, and still uses, stone money.
Stone money is circular in shape with a hole in the middle transport and see them laying all over the island. The stones were carved from quartz, using fire to first heat the stone and then seashells for carving. Hard to imagine.
The highlight of the day (and the trip) was getting to visit Tamag’s village and meet his uncle, the village Chief. The Chief was a delight, enthusiastically welcoming me and repeatedly apologizing for not having a gift for me. He also proudly announced that he was 76 years old. I asked for an explanation of his “clothing” and was told that he’s wearing three layers of loin cloths (red, blue, white, given as they age) and hibiscus strands to mark that his is an adult.
He then decided to dress me in one of his family’s traditional Yapese women’s skirts!
Tomorrow, onto the second Yap campus, FMI or the Fisheries and Maritime Institute of College of Micronesia, FSM.